Şemsi Pasha Mosque (Şemsi Paşa Camii)
A small Mimar Sinan mosque right on the water's edge in Üsküdar, also known locally as Kuşkonmaz, "where birds don't land".
Walk south along the shore from the Üsküdar ferry pier and you will see a small dome right at the water's edge. This is the Şemsi Pasha Mosque (Şemsi Paşa Camii), built by Mimar Sinan in 1580 on Istanbul's Asian side. It is one of Sinan's smallest mosques in the city, yet its setting makes it one of the most photographed. Locals also call it Kuşkonmaz, "where birds don't land".
History
The mosque was commissioned by the Ottoman statesman Şemsi Ahmed Pasha and designed by Mimar Sinan, the empire's chief architect. The inscription over the door gives the year 1580. Sinan was in his nineties at the time.
The complex has three parts: the mosque, an L-shaped madrasa and the founder's tomb. The madrasa's domed cells frame a small garden by the sea. It was refurbished in 1953 and served for many years as a library.
Legend says birds never land on the mosque, supposedly because Sinan calculated the winds and currents of the shore. Visitors sometimes spot birds on the dome anyway, so judge for yourself.
What to see
The mosque is a simple square under a single dome about eight metres across, with one minaret and coloured-glass windows.
The most unusual detail is the tomb. Şemsi Pasha's tomb is joined to the prayer hall and separated from it only by a grille, which is rare in Ottoman mosques. The garden opens onto the water, with Seraglio Point, Topkapı Palace and the Maiden's Tower in one view.
Visiting
The mosque is on the Üsküdar waterfront, a few minutes' walk from Üsküdar station on the Marmaray and M5 metro lines. Ferries from Eminönü, Karaköy and Beşiktaş dock at Üsküdar pier. It is a working mosque, so avoid prayer times. Cover shoulders and knees; women should bring a headscarf.
Tip: come towards sunset, then continue along the shore to the Maiden's Tower.
Frequently asked questions
Who built the Şemsi Pasha Mosque?
It was designed by Mimar Sinan for the Ottoman statesman Şemsi Ahmed Pasha.
When was the Şemsi Pasha Mosque built?
The door inscription dates its completion to 1580.
Why is it called Kuşkonmaz?
Legend says birds never land on it. It is a folk belief; birds are sometimes seen on the dome.
How do I get to the Şemsi Pasha Mosque?
Take the Marmaray or M5 metro, or a ferry, to Üsküdar and walk south along the shore for a few minutes.