New Mosque (Yeni Cami), Eminönü

Step off a ferry at Eminönü and the first building you face is the New Mosque (Yeni Cami). It stands at the southern end of the Galata Bridge in Istanbul's Fatih district, right next to the Spice Bazaar. Its wide steps, crowded with pigeons and people, are one of the city's best-known scenes.

History of the New Mosque

The mosque was begun by Safiye Sultan, mother of Sultan Mehmed III, in the late 1590s. The first architect was Davud Ağa, a pupil of the great Mimar Sinan; after his death Dalgıç Ahmed Ağa took over. When Mehmed III died in 1603, Safiye Sultan was sent to the Old Palace and work stopped. The half-built walls stood for more than fifty years.

After the great fire of 1660, Hatice Turhan Sultan, mother of Mehmed IV, decided to finish it. The chief architect Mustafa Ağa resumed work in 1661. The inscriptions are dated 1663, and records say the mosque opened for Friday prayers in 1665. So the "new" mosque is more than 350 years old.

What to see

The mosque was the heart of a large complex. The Spice Bazaar, first called the Valide Bazaar, was built to fund it with shop rents. At the southeast corner stands the Royal Pavilion (Hünkâr Kasrı), a three-storey building through which the sultan reached his private gallery inside the mosque. The tomb of Turhan Sultan holds her and several sultans, including Mehmed IV, Mustafa II and Ahmed III.

Inside, the central dome rests on four half-domes, and tiles cover the walls up to the second row of windows. The large courtyard with its ablution fountain is a calm break from the square.

Visiting

The mosque faces the Eminönü stop of the T1 tram. Sirkeci station on the Marmaray line and the ferry piers are a few minutes' walk away. It is a working mosque, so avoid prayer times, especially Friday midday prayers. Cover shoulders and knees; women should bring a headscarf. Check current visiting arrangements before you go.

Tip: the Spice Bazaar and the tiled Rüstem Pasha Mosque fit easily into the same walk.