Rüstem Pasha Mosque (Rüstem Paşa Camii)

In the busy lanes of Tahtakale, a narrow staircase between shopfronts leads up and away from the market noise. At the top is the Rüstem Pasha Mosque (Rüstem Paşa Camii). Set in Eminönü, a few minutes from the Spice Bazaar, this small mosque holds one of Istanbul's richest displays of Iznik tiles.

History

Mimar Sinan, the great Ottoman architect, built the mosque for Rüstem Pasha, grand vizier and son-in-law of Suleiman the Magnificent. Rüstem was married to Suleiman's daughter Mihrimah Sultan. The mosque was completed around the time of his death in 1561; sources give different exact dates.

It replaced an older small mosque, and many surrounding buildings were bought up to make room. Sinan placed it on a high terrace above vaulted storerooms and shops. Their rents paid for the mosque's upkeep. The design kept valuable market space and lifted the mosque above the street.

What to see

The tiles are the reason to come. Iznik tiles cover the porch façade, the interior walls, the piers, the mihrab and the minbar. Tulips, carnations and hyacinths sit beside geometric patterns. Some tiles were replaced during later repairs. Even so, few places let you study 16th-century Iznik work this closely.

The prayer hall is covered by a single dome and is fairly small, so the patterns are at eye level and easy to examine.

Visiting

The mosque is in the Hasırcılar market street in Fatih, about five minutes' walk from the Eminönü stop on the T1 tram. You enter by staircases from street level; the sign is small and easy to miss. Visits are not possible during prayers. Cover shoulders and knees; women should bring a headscarf. Check current visiting arrangements before you go.

Tip: the tiles look best in daylight. Combine your visit with the New Mosque and the Spice Bazaar.