Kuzguncuk Çınaraltı Cafe

Just before Kuzguncuk's market street (Çarşı Caddesi) reaches the Bosphorus, it opens onto a small square. Kuzguncuk Çınaraltı Cafe sits right here, with fold-out tables and benches set out in the shade of the trees. On fine days everyone sits outside; when the weather turns, there is an indoor room. The waterfront is a few steps away.

This is not a trendy brunch spot. It is a neighbourhood café that has long been known for its breakfasts. On weekend mornings, locals, cyclists and visitors exploring Kuzguncuk all end up under the same trees.

What to order

The classic breakfast plate comes first: white cheese, olives, tomato, cucumber and fresh bread. For something hot, order eggs with sucuk (spicy Turkish sausage) cooked in a small pan, or an omelette. Reviewers also recommend the toasted sandwich with sucuk and cheese. Add a fresh carrot or pomegranate juice, then tea or Turkish coffee. Portions are made for sharing, so a group can order several hot dishes for the middle of the table.

Visiting tips

Kuzguncuk is on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus in Üsküdar. Take a coastal bus from Üsküdar or walk along the shore. The tables under the trees fill fast at weekends, so arrive early; weekdays are calmer. The café opens early and stays open into the evening, but hours vary by season, so phone to check current hours. Afterwards, walk up Çarşı Caddesi among the neighbourhood's painted wooden houses. Don't confuse it with Tarihi Çınaraltı in Çengelköy, a separate tea garden further up the Bosphorus.