Things to Do in Kadıköy: Market, Moda, Yeldeğirmeni and Haydarpaşa
Kadıköy is the liveliest neighbourhood on Istanbul's Asian side. Step off the ferry and you are straight into a market of fishmongers, coffee roasters and second-hand bookshops. This shore is ancient: the Greek city of Chalcedon stood here. Today Kadıköy is loved for its food market, the Moda seafront, the murals of Yeldeğirmeni and its music venues. It feels local, lived-in and far less touristy than the Old City.
Kadıköy market
The best introduction to Kadıköy is the short walk from the pier into the market streets. Around Güneşlibahçe, Serasker and Muvakkithane streets you will find fishmongers, delis, pickle shops, spice sellers and coffee roasters side by side. Old-school lokantas (canteen-style restaurants) serve home cooking at lunch.
For Turkish coffee, Fazıl Bey at the market entrance is a local institution.
Haydarpaşa Station
North of the pier, a stone building with two towers seems to rise straight out of the sea. Haydarpaşa Station, completed in 1908, was for decades the starting point for trains into Anatolia. No regular trains run today and the building is being restored. The best view is from the ferry as it leaves Kadıköy.
Yeldeğirmeni and Bahariye
Just north of the market, Yeldeğirmeni is known for its old apartment blocks and huge murals painted during a street-art festival. Speciality coffee shops and small studios fill its streets.
Bahariye Street is the pedestrian shopping street, with the bronze bull statue at Altıyol as Kadıköy's classic meeting point.
Süreyya Opera House. Opened in 1927 as the first musical theatre on the Asian side, it now stages opera and ballet.
Moda
South of Bahariye lies Moda: leafy streets, old mansions and a seafront facing the Sea of Marmara. A nostalgic tram loops between Kadıköy and Moda. The Moda seafront, with the Princes' Islands on the horizon, is one of Istanbul's favourite sunset spots.
Evenings
After dark the crowd moves to Kadife Street, better known as "Bar Street", with small bars and live music. For concerts and theatre, try the Nâzım Hikmet Cultural Centre or the Süreyya Opera.
A half-day walk in Kadıköy
- Take the ferry to Kadıköy and look out for Haydarpaşa Station.
- Browse the market and have lunch at a lokanta.
- After coffee, walk up to the Yeldeğirmeni murals.
- Stroll down Bahariye Street past the Süreyya Opera to Moda.
- End the day on the Moda seafront at sunset.
With another half day, walk Bağdat Avenue:
Practical tips
- Getting there: ferries run to Kadıköy from Eminönü, Karaköy and Beşiktaş. Ayrılık Çeşmesi station on the Marmaray line and the M4 metro also serve the area.
- Crowds: the market and Moda seafront are busy at weekends; weekday mornings are calmer.
- Walking: the market to Moda is a 15–20 minute walk with a gentle climb.
- Markets: the famous Tuesday market (Salı Pazarı) is held in Hasanpaşa; check market days before you go.
FAQ
What should I see in Kadıköy on a first visit?
The market, Yeldeğirmeni, Bahariye Street, the Süreyya Opera and the Moda seafront. All fit into half a day.
How do I get to Kadıköy from the European side?
The ferry is the nicest way: there are regular services from Eminönü, Karaköy and Beşiktaş. Marmaray and the M4 metro also reach Kadıköy.
Is Kadıköy worth visiting?
Yes. It shows a local side of Istanbul, with great food, cafés and nightlife, and the ferry ride there is a highlight in itself.
Do trains still run from Haydarpaşa Station?
No. There are no regular services and the building is under restoration. See it from the Kadıköy ferry.