Balat Filming Locations Walk: Çukur, Haysiyet and the Real Fener
The hillside running from Fener to Balat on the Golden Horn is Istanbul's open-air film set. Çukur built its fictional neighbourhood here. This autumn, Haysiyet's Karlıova family lives on the same streets. Long before the cameras came, though, this was where Greeks, Jews, Armenians and Bulgarians lived side by side. This walk shows you both.
Which series, and how sure are we?
Production companies rarely publish filming addresses. Turkish press reports name the neighbourhood, not the doorway. Here is what the sources confirm:
- Çukur (Show TV, 2017–2021): neighbourhood scenes on Balat's colourful streets. "Çukur" itself is fictional.
- Haysiyet (Kanal D, since September 2026): the Karlıova family's neighbourhood is real Balat, not a studio set.
- Altı Üstü İstanbul (ATV, since June 2026): the fictional Ziyankâr neighbourhood; reports name Balat and Fener among its locations.
- Yeraltı (NOW, since January 2026): the historic peninsula, including Balat and Eminönü.
- Delikanlı (Show TV, spring 2026): Balat and Fener.
- Muhtemel Aşk (Show TV, 2026): street scenes in Balat and Kuzguncuk.
We don't say which house appeared in which scene, because nobody has published that.
Getting there
- T5 tram from Eminönü: get off at Fener (three stops after Eminönü), return from Balat.
- Bus 99A (Eminönü–Gaziosmanpaşa) runs along the Golden Horn and stops at Fener and Balat.
- Golden Horn ferry (Şehir Hatları): from Üsküdar and Karaköy via Kasımpaşa to Fener and Balat, roughly hourly. Check the current timetable before you go.
The walk: 9 stops
1. Fener waterfront. Start by the water. Look up the hill: the red castle-like building is your third stop. Map
2. Ecumenical Patriarchate and St George's Church. Seat of the Patriarchate since 1597. Its main "Middle Gate" has stayed shut since Patriarch Gregory V was hanged in front of it in 1821. Reported hours are 8:00–16:30 daily, with a security check. Dress modestly and don't photograph services. Map
3. Phanar Greek Orthodox College, the "Red School". Built in 1881–1883 to plans by Konstantinos Dimadis, for a school whose roots go back to the 15th century. In October 2025 the Ministry of Education ordered the building vacated for earthquake strengthening. View it from outside. Map
4. St Mary of the Mongols (Kanlı Kilise). A small Byzantine church behind a high wall, one of only two in the city never turned into a mosque. Ring the bell if the door is closed. Map
5. Merdivenli Mektep Sokağı. A stepped lane leading down to Vodina Caddesi. These steps are people's doorsteps. Don't sit on them for a shoot. Map
6. Vodina and Kiremit streets. Bay-windowed houses leaning on each other, laundry lines, neighbours drinking tea outside. This is the "mahalle" look that Çukur and Haysiyet put on screen. Many facades were repainted in recent renewal work. Behind the paint, many houses still need repair. Map
7. Ahrida Synagogue. Dating to the early 15th century and named after Ohrid in North Macedonia. Its bimah is shaped like a ship's prow. In 2021 visits ran daily except Saturdays, 10:00–17:00, for up to 30 minutes. Confirm current arrangements before you go. Map
8. Balat market streets. Old coffeehouses, antique shops and bakeries. Çukur fans ask for "Dostlar Kahvesi". A 2018 report said fans came to see it, along with the Koçovalı soup kitchen and Muhittin's barbershop from the show. We couldn't confirm whether any of them still operate under those names. Ask the shopkeepers. Map
9. Bulgarian St Stephen Church (Iron Church). A neo-Gothic church made of cast iron, prefabricated in Vienna in 1893–1896 and shipped down the Danube. It opened in 1898 and reopened after restoration in January 2018. Balat pier and tram stop are a few minutes away. Map
Respect the neighbourhood
People live here. Don't pose on doorsteps or at windows. Ask before photographing residents, especially children. If you come across a film crew, follow their instructions. Skip drones and tripods that block the lane. Buy your tea and simit locally.
FAQ
Where was Çukur filmed? On real streets in Balat, Fatih. The Çukur neighbourhood name is fictional.
Is Dostlar Kahvesi still open? Unconfirmed. Ask locally.
Where is Haysiyet filmed? On Balat's real streets; no address has been released.
Where is Altı Üstü İstanbul filmed? Reports name Balat and Fener, plus Beyoğlu, Sarıyer and Üsküdar. Ziyankâr is fictional.
How long does the walk take? About 2.5 km; allow 2.5–3.5 hours.
When is the best time to visit Balat? Weekday mornings. Weekend afternoons are crowded.